SUSTAINABLE SYMPOSIUM
Steven Passaro
by Melania Musci
Traditional tailoring and the most innovative technologies work in synergy under the guidance of Steven Passaro. The designer, at the helm of his eponymous brand, has a minimal and poetic approach that focuses on the investigation of the individual and aims to create timeless pieces that allow everyone to express their personality to the fullest.
One of you latest collection ‘Another Layer’ tells a story of evolution. Having reached the sixth collection with your eponymous brand, how do you think your approach to designing garments has evolved?
Already the sixth, wow! Time Flies. Every collection is an occasion to refine my creative process and to try an innovative approach. I am getting more comfortable with the technical aspects and at mastering tailoring, which is the hardest. I have more time now exploring new designs and building a continuous story from one collection to the other.
How did you decide to explore multiple identities in this collection?
I love this concept of layering to represent our multiple identities. I’ve been implementing this idea from the beginning. It reflects my personal life and growth as well. You know, we’re like onions, layers and layers of beliefs and emotions.
Your preference for using soft, neutral colors in your collections is fascinating, but some designs feature prints. Is there a specific reason behind this choice that’s connected to your interest in human nature?
Using natural colors is quite soothing for me but I also have this layer of me where I like to explore and get out of my comfort zone. Prints has become something I want to push and thanks to 3D sampling I’m able to do exact placements and open doors of new creativity.
You and your team use 3D pattern-cutting technologies for the digitalisation and virtualisation of the creative process. Do you think technology and artificial intelligence are allies of creatives and can be combined with traditional tailoring techniques?
Yes, I think we are definitely at the time of a shift. New tools are coming everyday and what we know today won’t be here tomorrow. Very little people understand what I am doing with 3D pattern cutting. I like technologies because it gives us more time for the craftsmanship. Even if you don’t like a design, craftsmanship can’t be something you discuss. It involves time.
Staying on this topic, how has the use of such technology made the creation of garments more sustainable?
Absolutely, yes! Imagine, usually for one garment we must do 3 toiles and 2 or 3 samples. With 3D we do most of the time zero. But it takes practice to reach this level. We avoid a lot of waste, and we’re able to make sure our fabric consumption is optimized.
Steven Passaro’s garments are becoming increasingly genderless. Do you think this will contribute to making fashion more sustainable over time?
Clothes have no gender but body proportion. I think it’s always been the case where women are ok to wear men’s clothes but it’s more difficult for men to do the opposite. I think the way forward would be automated bespoke clothes, tailored for each body and AI is soon giving us the power to do this.
After your studies, you worked at Christian Dior. What was the exact moment in your journey when you realized it was time to start your own label?
Indeed, I did two internships in Visual merchandising, so it really helped me understand the importance of visual stories. Starting my own label came shortly after graduating from the London College of Fashion. I also did work for Loewe and Hermes just before, and I felt the fire inside me pushing me to launch the brand. Covid arrived, and I locked myself in my flat making clothes.
If you weren’t a designer, what profession would you have pursued instead?
Probably a psychologist, I’ve always been fascinated with the mind and how people behave. It’s an endless world.
You recently posted a video on your brand’s profile where you talk about mental health. How difficult was it to share this part of your story with such a wide audience, and what drove you to do so?
I think the greatest people on earth, are the one that went through a lot. I’ve been sharing my story with few close friends, and they were very surprised. They found it very inspiring, and my best friend told me ‘Steven you need to share your story, this is empowering for the new generation’. It gives hope and courage, it’s very fulfilling. There is more to come.
Coming to an end, what are the next goals for Steven Passaro as a brand and as a person?
As a brand, we’re growing slowly but surely. We’ve been having a lot of traction in Asia, which is incredible. So possibly a show in Shanghai. On a personal level, I’m shifting my mindset, and being more vulnerable with my audience, also more present on social media. My goal is to inspire the next generation and be creative director for a heritage fashion house.
Credits: Pictures by Victor Jacques, Interview by Melania Musci